ark smart breeding настройка

Manual

There are external resources (mostly videos) about Smart Breeding and breeding in Ark in general, check them out on External Resources.

Howto Extract the stats used for breeding

  1. Open the inventory of the creature to see the current stat-values (making a screenshot may make things easier)
  2. Open ARK Smart Breeding and go to the «Extractor»-tab.
  3. Choose the correct species in the dropdown and enter the level and the stat-values
  4. Click «Extract Level Distribution»
  5. Now you can see the wild- and domesticated levelups of the different stats. If stats or controls are yellow or red, see below.
  6. Store your creature in the library to compare it to others and see which one is the best for your next breeding session.

(or check out Importing Creatures for automatic methods)

What to do if a stat is yellow?

A yellow stat means that there is no unique but multiple combination of wild and domesticated levels to get to the current value. Click on the yellow stat to get a list of all possible combinations in the right listbox. Choose the entry that is the correct one.

How do I know which combination is the correct one?

If you know that you never leveled up the stat, choose the entry that has 0 levels in the domesticated column. E.g. if you have Oxygen selected and know that you never leveled up this stat, the domesticated levels in that stat have to be equal to zero.

If you don’t know how often you leveled up the stat, have a look at the sums under the stat-boxes and find the level-combinations that don’t violate the conditions there.

If that doesn’t help, a definitive way to find out the levels is to breed the creature with a creature you know the levels and then look at the levelups of the offspring. If it doesn’t have inherited the levels of the known parent you now have the levels of your current creature.

If a stat or control is red, see Extraction issues.

источник

Ark smart breeding настройка

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Features

Tweaks

  • Column widths can be reset with a context menu from the list view headers (thanks to @EmkioA !) (#1054)
  • Removed default sortNames.txt to prevent overwriting of user defined files.
  • Added breeding values to infoGraphic export
  • Option to in- or exclude save-import of cryo-creatures.

Fixes

  • Layout fix in raising-tab
  • topPercent naming pattern now considers selected stats
  • Updater fix
  • Exception fix regarding colors of placeholder creatures (#1056)
  • fix for color import of unused colors

General Infos

Which version to take?

  • Use the setup-ArkSmartBreeding-(version).exe for an installation in the system’s programs folder. Suitable for single user installations.
  • Extract the ARK.Smart.Breeding_(version).zip in an arbitrary folder to use it as a portable or shared installation.

Species Images

The image-files have to be downloaded separately when using the zip version: Creature-Images. Extract the folder «img» to the same folder where the executable is located to get better visuals of the creature’s colors. Currently 29 creatures are included. You don’t need to redownload this file if you already have the creature-images.

cadon released this Mar 31, 2020 · 25 commits to master since this release

Features

  • Naming patterns:
    • <<#ifexpr: expression | true | false >> can evaluate an expression with two operands and an operator. Supported are ==, !=, , >=
    • topPercent

Tweaks

  • Removed status icon from name column in library (thanks to EmkioA)
  • Option to disable top creature hightlight in library

Fixes

General Infos

Which version to take?

  • Use the setup-ArkSmartBreeding-(version).exe for an installation in the system’s programs folder. Suitable for single user installations.
  • Extract the ARK.Smart.Breeding_(version).zip in an arbitrary folder to use it as a portable or shared installation.

Species Images

The image-files have to be downloaded separately when using the zip version: Creature-Images. Extract the folder «img» to the same folder where the executable is located to get better visuals of the creature’s colors. Currently 29 creatures are included. You don’t need to redownload this file if you already have the creature-images.

cadon released this Mar 27, 2020 · 38 commits to master since this release

Features

  • Option to override the imprinting-multiplier for species
  • New naming-pattern isNewTop (e.g. <<#if: isNewTopHP | newHP >> )
  • option in Breeding Planner: consider one or both partners for the mutation-limit (#1052)

Tweaks

  • Added mutations, sex and level-bars to infographic export
  • infographic can be copied to the clipboard by clicking on the color image in the library tab
  • Added Conquest-server to multiplier presets.
  • Added second parameter to custom-replace if key is not available (previously the key was returned then)
  • ignore comment lines in multiplier-import in settings

Fixes

  • Fix to add edited creature from the nester anew to the library
  • Pad days in time-left in timers for better sorting (#1049)

General Infos

Which version to take?

  • Use the setup-ArkSmartBreeding-(version).exe for an installation in the system’s programs folder. Suitable for single user installations.
  • Extract the ARK.Smart.Breeding_(version).zip in an arbitrary folder to use it as a portable or shared installation.

Species Images

The image-files have to be downloaded separately when using the zip version: Creature-Images. Extract the folder «img» to the same folder where the executable is located to get better visuals of the creature’s colors. Currently 29 creatures are included. You don’t need to redownload this file if you already have the creature-images.

cadon released this Mar 21, 2020 · 54 commits to master since this release

Features

  • added naming pattern nr_in_gen
  • option to keep expired timers in overlay
  • checkboxes for timers for easier toggle their overlay status
  • option to display only the single best breeding suggestion for females in the breeding planner
  • first draw of a small graphic that displays the levels and colors of a creature to use in discord or a forum (in the library right-click Copy infographic to clipboard)

Tweaks

  • Option to consider cryopod creatures in the breeding planner
  • Added column for status and tribe in the library
  • removed automatic number padding of some keywords for naming pattern for more flexible handling. You can use << #format: value | 00 >> to get the previous result.
  • added TekHoverSkiff to ignored species on import
  • Autocomplete of tribes works now as intended in the infoInput
  • Multiplier settings can now be dropped as text to the settings window (e.g. dragging the text directly from a broswer window is possible)
  • added option to reset column widths in the library (useful if a column got «lost» by changing its width to zero).
  • consider locked fields of owner and tribe when importing a creature.
  • stat multiplier tester handles float precision errors better
  • when copying a creature from the extractor to the tester, more infos of the infoInput are copied.

Fixes

  • Updater fix
  • Clipboard import/export fixed
  • Ignore placeholder creatures in naming pattern FirstWordOfOldest
  • consider singleplayer setting when copying settings from multiplier tester to settings
  • in the breeding planner with IgnoreSex enabled, pairs are no longer displayed twice
  • when limiting mutations in the breeding planner, only pairs where both parents exceed that limit are sorted out

General Infos

Which version to take?

  • Use the setup-ArkSmartBreeding-(version).exe for an installation in the system’s programs folder. Suitable for single user installations.
  • Extract the ARK.Smart.Breeding_(version).zip in an arbitrary folder to use it as a portable or shared installation.

Species Images

The image-files have to be downloaded separately when using the zip version: Creature-Images. Extract the folder «img» to the same folder where the executable is located to get better visuals of the creature’s colors. Currently 29 creatures are included. You don’t need to redownload this file if you already have the creature-images.

источник

Breeding

Breeding is a feature of ARK: Survival Evolved that allows players to breed improved creatures through Dinosaur Eggs with non-mammals and gestation with mammals. Eggs do not have an owner, so it’s possible to steal eggs laid by other survivors’ dinos.

Newborn creatures are simply claimed (imprinted on) and do not require the usual taming processes associated with wild creatures. Anyone can claim a newborn. This must be done promptly, along with feeding it, as babies can die quickly from hunger.

Contents

Breeding Mechanics [ edit | edit source ]

Preparing Mating [ edit | edit source ]

The first step of breeding is having two opposite sex creatures of the same species for mating. Original and Aberrant Dinosaur variants count as separate species, and as such, cannot be cross-bred. They must be bred with their own original/Aberrant variant. Most creatures can be bred; those few that cannot are listed at the bottom of this article. See Sterile Creatures for more information.

Always be prepared for having more than one baby dino to be born upon incubation/gestation. There is a 10% chance of twins, and a 2% chance of triplets. [1]

Note: One of the developers Cedric@ComplexMinded confirmed that there is no creature in game with ability to affect the chances of mutations, twins, triplets etc. as of 03.04.2020 [2]

Mating Requirements [ edit | edit source ]

For creatures to successfully mate, both sexes must be:

  • within mating range of each other
  • wandering or set to mate(Enable Wandering or Enable Mating must be enabled on both creatures)
  • not following anything (Disable Following on both creatures)
  • unburdened (the creatures must not be carrying so much weight they are unable to move)
  • not spayed/neutered

Mating Range [ edit | edit source ]

The mating range varies between species and is loosely based on the size of the adult creature. Building a pen of a suitably small size to keep the wandering animals within mating range of each other is one common approach.

If you do not want to build a pen, you can go onto the creature commands and enable mating, this will make the creatures stand still and then they will start to mate. You can also use the «Whistle Stop (All)» command ( U on PC). This halts all dinos within the area to stop moving, even ones that are enabled to wander. It’s best to use the whistle every time the dino starts to move again, or to prevent the dinos from ever moving, whistle constantly. While this method doesn’t need a pen, it does need you or a tribe member to stay there and constantly whistle. This may be more helpful if one survivor is constantly whistling not to move, and another survivor enables the creatures nearby to wander and mate. In this way, you can achieve mass breeding in an area without ever building a pen, or moving creatures. Alternatively, you can set the dinos you want them to mate to that state without the burden of them wandering around.

To initiate breeding of a pair by yourself, whistle both creatures to follow you, then enable wandering or mating. Then, disable following on both. This prevents them from walking around in the meantime.

In the DLC Extinction, it is possible to use the Dino Leash , to restrict the range for mating. Then no mating pen is needed.

Mating [ edit | edit source ]

When the above conditions are all met, a beating heart icon appears over the heads of the mating creatures, and a mating bar appears on the female’s HUD (look at the female to reveal the HUD). The HUD also indicates which creature they are mating with. Ensure the mating animals remain close together, as otherwise the mating stops. Due to server lag and game mechanics, the mating bar does not continuously update in real time. Additionally, mating multiple females to a single male at the same time can make this worse. Patience is advised as the bar moves in leaps and bounds.

Once the mating bar is completed, non-mammalian females drop a single fertilized egg , and mammalian females start gestating.

If there are too many tamed dinos in the server or in the tribe, the pair will refuse to mate until there is a free spot.

Special Conditions of Mating [ edit | edit source ]

Some of the dinosaur will only mate when certain conditions are given.

  • Royal Griffin — will only mate with the other gender with similar surname.
  • Ferox — will only mate when the female is at least 90%+ addiction as a small creature.
  • Magmasaur — will only mate when the female is submerged in the lava surface in Volcano Region at Genesis.
  • Megachelon — will only mate at extreme depths in the ocean (Genesis oceans are deep enough,Also works on particularly deeps parts of Ragnarok,Tested on or The Center, great depths works there as well. Will not work on the Island. ,Can’t be bred on Valguero either.

Mating Wait Interval [ edit | edit source ]

Females cannot mate again until a mating wait interval has passed (Cryofreezing them will still continue the mating interval cooldown). This interval is indicated on their HUD. For mammals, the mating wait interval does not commence until after their gestation has completed. Males can mate at any time.

Incubation [ edit | edit source ]

The fertilized egg itself only begins Incubation when dropped into the world, not in Inventory. When dropped, a Fertilized Egg must be kept at a certain temperature range depending on the species (this also factors in insulation). If outside of this temperature range, incubation won’t make progress, and it loses «Fertilized Egg Health» over time and is destroyed if this reaches zero. This is all indicated on the HUD when looking at a Fertilized Egg, along with its Parents.

The following eggs are an exception due to the nature of how it is obtained (No health loss in inadequate temperature area):

If there are too many tamed dinos in the server or in the tribe, the egg will continue to incubate with no timer information, but letting it hatch will not yield a baby.

Managing Temperature [ edit | edit source ]

The best method to ensure eggs are at an appropriate temperature for incubation is through insulation. Use one or more Air Conditioner, Dimetrodon, Kairuku or Otter. Six Air Conditioner should work for all eggs but eight is ideal for when there is a heat/cold storm. You might need up to 14 Air Conditioners for larger eggs such as the Giganotosaurus, or the Wyvern in Scorched Earth or Ragnarok. The Rock Drake in Aberration requires at least 15 Air Conditioners due to its very cold incubation requirement. Whereas the Deinonychus from Valguero needs a rough 23 Air Conditioners in the snow because of its extreme heat required.

Another way is to tame a handful of Dimetrodon. These seemingly useless finned creatures are actually one of the best sources of insulation in the entire game. The higher their melee damage, the higher their insulation bonus is; at

1000 melee damage, it can even raise wyvern eggs. The insulation effect stacks with other Dimetrodons, so if one isn’t enough to do the job, try two, or three, or more. Far cheaper to maintain than the expensive air conditioners, these guys are mobile and only need meat, compared to the stationary air conditioner that also needs electricity to run. However, everything has its drawbacks: the Dimetrodon is slow and hard to transport on foot; they are hard to tame due to where they spawn and their fast torpor drop. However, it is worth the risk, especially on Aberration, where Rock Drake Egg would normally require many air conditioners.

While most creature’s egg can be moved to its suitable location if the required temperature for incubation is not suited at its current location, due to the nature of the Bloodstalker Egg , it cannot be moved anywhere once the female Bloodstalker has laid her egg.

At the beginning of the game, when the Air Conditioner or Dimetrodon are not yet available, use a heat source to regulate the egg’s temperature. Standing Torch, Torch, Campfire, Industrial Cooker, and stone fireplace work well. However, they all have the downside of providing negative Heat Tolerance, making careful management necessary, or going to colder areas to make the gap between cold resistance and heat resistance bigger. You may need four or more torches, depending on the biome and the egg.

Since temperature gradients can be very extreme between regions, easily reaching 20 °C or more, you can try and find a nearby biome where the temperature is closer to the eggs’ ideal point; this is usually in the biome that spawned the creature. Early in the game, it is easier to find a biome that is too cold (e.g. near the coast) and heat the egg with torches, rather than trying to cool down a hot biome.

As Fertilized Eggs don’t lose Egg Health in an inventory, and spoil incredibly slowly, you can keep them in your Inventory or in a preserving bin/refrigerator until able to achieve the appropriate temperature needed for Incubating. This can be very useful if you settled in a region with extreme temperatures as it’s especially difficult to cool an egg in a hot biome without an air conditioner when it gets too hot.

Gestating [ edit | edit source ]

During gestation, females can consume up to twice the amount of food they would normally. Ensure the expectant mother has access to plenty of food during gestation to avoid losing the baby.

Claiming [ edit | edit source ]

Babies are born unclaimed, so a survivor must «claim» them immediately after birth by getting close to them, looking right at them, and pressing the «use» key ( E , , ) to imprint them, otherwise they can be claimed by other survivors. The only exception is the Reaper King, which can only be claimed by the survivor who «gave birth» to it; no other survivor including the birthgiver’s tribe mates can claim it.

Warning: Pets set on aggressive attack unclaimed creatures as soon as they are hatched/born. Whistle «Passive» or claim babies quickly to avoid this. Also Tek Shields will ‘shunt’ unclaimed babies out of their radius.

As of 264.5, Auto Turrets and Plant Species X set to «Players and Tamed Creatures» will NOT attack unclaimed creatures after they are hatched/born. You can safely place turrets inside a hatching pen without fearing for babies’ lives.

If babies are not very promptly claimed and then fed they can quickly die from hunger.

Caring For Babies [ edit | edit source ]

Young animals take significant time and intensive care, especially during the «Baby» stage; if you’re busy, don’t breed your animals right away. Most animals on stock server settings will require the better part of a weekend to raise. You can keep fertilized eggs in a Preserving Bin or Refrigerator, but beware they will eventually spoil. This is, of course, not an option for live birth animals, so make sure to time the mating appropriately.

New babies are set to wandering, and following the nearest survivor if one is within a reasonable range, so survivors will probably want to disable these settings. New babies have extremely low health, carrying capacity and food, so survivors need to carefully feed and take care of them in their first moments of life, or they’ll soon die. The creature must be fed by adding food to their inventory. Once they reach 10% of their maturation, Juvenile, they can eat from a Feeding Trough to ensure the creature has a sufficient food supply. The maturation progress is shown when looking at the creature.

Babies dynamically gain more HP, food capacity, and carrying capacity as they mature over time. They need lots of food because the babies eat very quickly, so stock up beforehand while the mother is pregnant/the egg is hatching.

Babies are not mountable and flee from fights. Mounts that can carry creatures (e.g. the Argentavis) can carry babies, which allows you to quickly reposition the little ones if needed.

It takes a long time for babies to mature; breeding should only be attempted if you or your tribe have the time. As the baby grows, you will be able to leave the baby alone for longer and longer periods of time. One good use of a survivor’s time at this stage might be crafting kibble for imprinting. If you will be imprinting, the baby might request any of 6 different kibbles (on PC and Console) or 15 different kibbles (on Mobile), so make sure you have them on hand.

Caring for Baby Carnivores [ edit | edit source ]

Baby carnivores are especially difficult to raise as it takes a minimum of 48 real hours to mature them, and a stack of meat spoils every 26.6 real hours (40 x 40 mins) in the feeding trough. Therefore their feeding trough must be topped up every 26 hours to continue their development. Failure to do so will result in a lengthy development phase because of missed feeding. By using Fish Meat, this time is doubled to 53,3 hours (40 x 80 mins), although Raw Fish Meat is only half as nutritious as Raw Meat, so baby dinos will need twice as much meat. Dinos* will eat food with the lowest food value first (see food table below), thus fish meat before raw meat, so mixing the two will result in the longer keeping fish meat being eaten first. After progression to Juvenile phase, you do not need to make sure they are constantly fed; however not doing so will extend their development time.

This is less of an issue for herbivores, because a stack of 100 berries lasts 66 real hours (2.7 days) before spoiling, a much more manageable interval. Remember not to try and feed the babies with stim or narcoberries because they won’t eat them.

*Few creatures, like Baryonyx and Pelagornis will eat Raw Fish Meat before Cooked Fish Meat and they only eat fish meat.

Caring for Babies from Egg-only Hatching [ edit | edit source ]

Babies hatched from Egg-only taming (with the exception of Deinonychus) only takes a specific food until they fully matures. While their food drops down slower than other babies, feeding them with their usual food will not replenish their food.

  • Wyvern = Only takes in Wyvern Milk which can be obtained by either knocking out an adult wild female Wyvern, or killing Alpha Fire Wyvern.
  • Rock Drake = Only takes in Nameless Venom which can sometimes be gained by killing Nameless.
  • Magmasaur = Only takes in Ambergris which can sometimes be harvested from the green-cracked rock formations in Lunar Biome at Genesis Simulation.

Special Caring [ edit | edit source ]

Some babies require special caring. Effects can be disastrous if not cared for properly.

Reaper King [ edit | edit source ]

For details on taking care of baby Reaper King or how to obtain them, check its own article. Reaper King babies will attack any dino and any survivor around if it is able to reach towards them and will be constantly on wander (with no options to stop wandering or follow target). It will not attack the birth giver with Reaper Pheromone Gland effect. Once it reaches Juvenile however, it will stop randomly attacking and can be ordered like every other baby.

Whenever the baby attacks an entity, a portion of its food will be lost.

Royal Griffin [ edit | edit source ]

Baby Griffins prefers to be secure to feel safe. While it feels insecure, it will refuse to eat food from inventory or trough. For it to feel secure, it must be close to its mother based on the current ancestor, or a female griffin with the same surname as the baby.

Food Values [ edit | edit source ]

Carnivores will only eat meat, while herbivores will only eat berries. During the baby phase, you have to hand feed the baby until it reaches the juvenile stage. This can take quite a long time so be prepared and have time to sit around feeding a baby. Also, food value does not seem to affect the baby anymore, it’s a certain time stamp for how long the baby will grow into a juvenile as of 4-18-2016.

Food Food-Value
Preferred Kibble 80 (53.33**)
Kibble made from Prime Meat Jerky (excluding Carbonemys kibble) 90
Other Kibble 60
Raw Prime Meat / Raw Meat / Raw Mutton 50
Spoiled Meat 50*
Cooked Prime Meat / Prime Meat Jerky 50
Crops 40
Mejoberries 30
Cooked Meat / Cooked Meat Jerky 25
Raw Prime Fish Meat / Cooked Prime Fish Meat / Raw Fish Meat 25
Other Berries 20
Cooked Fish Meat 12

*only for Scorpions and Vultures
**Brontos only gain 53.33 food points from their preferred Kibble (Carbonemys Egg)

Maturation Phases & Food Consumption [ edit | edit source ]

Food consumption by babies is very large and varies by the maturation progress dynamically

Note: This formula is an estimation and may be not give exact numbers.

Some Perspective: For only one baby Rex (remember you could have twins or triplets) on an unmodified server, it will take roughly 450 stacks (almost 6 refrigerators) of raw meat to reach adult phase, so be sure to have plenty on hand before the baby is born!

Use a calculator to determine the needed food and time, e.g. [3]

Notes [ edit | edit source ]

  • The food consumption rate appears to change with each stage of the maturation progress (at least for wolves and Dodos).

Imprinting [ edit | edit source ]

Imprinting is a way to improve the stat-values of a bred creature. It requires one of three interactions (giving specific kibble, cuddling, walking) every 8 hours. Only a single player can imprint a newborn baby (whoever claims it first). There is no penalty for not imprinting, and any imprinting done is permanent. Imprinting values will not be lost if you miss an imprint.

If this player manages to care for the baby during the entire maturation, the creature’s base stats before modifications will be increased by 20% and, when ridden by the imprinter, it will also gain 30% increased damage and damage resistance.

Sterile Creatures [ edit | edit source ]

All tameable creatures are breedable except for:

Despite ingame showing the Reaper King as breedable, it is impossible due to how they are «tamed», with the added fact they are shown as genderless.

In ARK: Survival Evolved Mobile, Royal Griffin has gender and can be bred. However, they will only mate with members of the same house (they must have the same 2-3 last letters in their names).

источник

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